Friday, February 26, 2010
Backstage with the Musicians
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Happy Birthday Mom!
Tommorow, February 18, has always been a Big Day in our family. For one thing, it's my Mother's birthday: Happy Birthday Mom! And also, because on my Mom's birthday 54 years ago, she had me. Yes, my Mom and I share a birthday. She's still healthy and gets around, still rides nine miles a week on her bike when weather permits, and she still cooks a mean lecso. It's a birthday we share with Paris Hilton, Michael Jordan, and Barry Humphries (Dame Edna Everage, my possums...). Buying birthday presents when I was a kid always seemed real - one for Mom, and one for me? It led to a tradition where I would buy birthday gifts for everybody in my family on my birthday and it eventually became a general holiday representing birthdays of all shapes and sizes. I asked her about what it was like having a baby on her birthday. She said it was like passing a cinder block. She wasn't lying. I was a big baby.
When I was back in New York during the winter I went through boxes of old papers and books tossing out about 75% of all the stuff I stored at my parent's house - I mean, who needs to have my old research materials on Yoruba linguistics and my friend's bound MA thesis about Togolese talking drumming? A decade's worth of anthropology dertitrus? Five cardboard boxes of air-check cassette tapes dating from my ten years as DJ on Boston radio station WMFO? I felt a lot better after dumping a lot of my old acquisitions, but of course I kept a few choice mementos, photos, and stuff I never even knew I had. In one box of old school books I found a couple of old black marble patterned notebooks dating to my first and second grade classes in school. I must have been about six or seven at the time. I actually remember the classes when we were being taught to write. It was kind of an aha! moment when I figured this out. I never knew I would end up becoming a writer and not a fireman or a dinosaur scientist, but there you have it. My first attempts at prose already showed a curiosity towards the elusive nature of existence:
They promised us jet packs, damn it! But instead, we got pop culture. I remember the buzz the week the Beatles first played on the Ed Sullivan show - we kids weren't allowed to watch the show the first night out of a fear - voiced by the Italian Moms on our block - that they might wiggle their hips in the scandalous way Elvis had when he first appeared on Ed Sullivan. It didn't happen, and the next week we were allowed to watch the Fab Four. It obviously made an impression.
Sunday, February 07, 2010
Mangalica Pig Festival, Budapest. Special Treyf Edition!
Wednesday, February 03, 2010
Rome: The Eternal City of Airport Transit Hotels
Getting back to Budapest was not the easiest part of my journey. I flew out of Newark on Alitalia, and arrived in Rome at 7 am on Saturday morning with two hours to nose around before connecting to my flight to Budapest. Fumie had flown separately, so her flight was via Lufthansa connecting in Frankfurt. I figured I would grab a chunk of cheese at the duty free, hop on the plane, and be home. Of course, things don’t work like that.
Budapest was snowed in with two feet of snow falling the night before and more coming down, and the airport was closed, all flights cancelled. So my day flowed by waiting for another flight, running down to the luggage carousel to collect my bags, rebooking a new flight outside in the public arrivals area, checking in my bags, and going through the security process again… and again… and again throughout the day. The Alitalia staff was helpful in their slightly confused, monolingual way. The representatives of Malev? Non-existent on the ground, they made themselves manifest as telephoned refusals to provide meals for the stranded passengers milling around the terminal. They didn’t have the decency to call the gates to tell the airport personall when a flight was cancelled or delayed.
The Alitalia staff simply shrugged and said “Well, you know… it’s Malev… they never pay” as if anybody who didn’t already know about Malev must have been on some other planet for the last century. Malev… isn’t that short for 'malevolent?' Should any company that ran out of money years ago still be allowed to operate? A company that even Russian oil millionaires seem wary of taking over? Fumie called from Frankfurt, where she was delayed: Lufthansa had issued all passengers a ten Euro meal voucher. As anybody who has flown anywhere via Germany knows, there really is no food in German airports – except wurst. Frankfurters or Bratwurst, not much else, and never very good. Poor Fumie. In Rome, at least, we had wonderful coffee bars and Panini galore… I broke down and ordered a pizza combo.
At Fumicino, the pizza isn’t spectacular, but it did come with real wild porcini mushroom. And I got an Alpine sandwich with speck bacon in the bargain. Not shabby at all. Eventually, after being rebooked three times through the day, our final chance of catching a final five pm flight fell through. With no idea of what to do, and expecting to sleep curled up in a corner of the baggage claim area, I went to the Alitalia ticket counter to rebook my flight yet again and was told that Alitalia would be sending me to a hotel to spend the night. Since my flight had been booked through Alitalia I was lucky: those passengers who booked through Malev were only offered a room at a special airline refugee rate. I hauled my bags to the overnight baggage guard room and hopped on the shuttle bus. So at the very least I get to see some of Rome…
or at least Ostia, the beachside suburb near the airport (although it actually is a part of the municipality of Rome.) I was in a good mood when I arrived… Here is the view from my balcony:
While Budapest sat under two feet of snow, I had palm trees and balmy spring mediterranean weather. I had dinner and went for a walk. The food at the Hotel Satellite was buffet style and quite possibly the worst I have ever eaten in Italy, but then that alone made it special and, after all, it was free. My favorite thing to do in Italy, however, is visit the supermarkets and I had just enough time to run down the street to a “Simply” market. Having run through the security checks so many times, I had a good idea of what I could and couldn’t bring and what to expect, and since I was already passed into the European Union, I could go hog wild, which is what I did.
Italian supermarkets seem like the happiest places on earth. I grabbed a zampone – a smoked pig leg stuffed with cotechino sausage, usually served at New Years with lentils and now on sale – and asked the deli staff how to cook it. They could speak English, surprisingly unlike the airport staff, and soon I had four butchers all trying to find the best way to prepare pig leg.
I grabbed a few cheeses that were half the price of the ones on sale at duty free. I popped in a few jars of anchovies and a couple of salamis. I would have picked up more but there is a limit to how much even I can carry alone… So now I am back... still busy for the next week with writing... but I already miss my folks back in the USA... and can't wait to visit them again.
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